We're delighted to see our Austrian pal Charly Fritzer back in Scotland for another Big Tree Campervan Scottish winter climbing road-trip, and when I picked Charly and Matthias Wurtzer up from the airport yesterday, they were really keen to get out and climb! So, they headed up to Aviemore in their campervan last night, with plans for a bunch of us to meet up with them this morning in Coire Cas carpark. I was planning to climb with Chadders (aka Mark Chadwick), and Greg Boswell, and Will Sim, and Will's pal Ally had also agreed to come and play - the only problem was whether the crags would be in good winter condition.
We all met as planned at 7.00am in the carpark, the Austrian boys having had an excellent night's kip in their campervan, but I must admit to feeling pretty apprehensive having persuaded all this winter talent to head into Coire an Lochain.... when in fact there was a percentage chance that the crags wouldn't be white enough! The forecast had definitely been better for the west coast, so it was a huge relief when it got light enough to see the crag... in perfect mixed climbing conditions! White with hoar frost and rime, with solid old snow up to the base of the crag, and not too much ice in cracks to make gear placement difficult. Phew!
Chadders and I both had to be back home pretty swiftish (me in time to get to a ceilidh which my daughter was playing at, and Chadders to do an avalanche awareness evening for the Mountain Rescue Team), so we sprinted up Overseer Direct, an excellent fun V,6 route which was very very enjoyable. From our route we could see over to Charly and Matthias who were making (very) quick work of Fallout Corner (VI,7).
Topping out in the sunshine we wandered over to watch Will looking cool on the top pitch of Daddy Longlegs (VIII,9) before we had to head down. It was only midday when we left, and whilst we did see the Austrian boys starting up Grumbling Groove (VI,6), there's a fair chance that lots more steep stuff was done! In a way it was a shame to have to leave so early, but it was a great morning out, excellent company, and a fun climb in superb conditions!
Below: A strong team (Greg Boswell, Will Sim, Matthias Wurtzer, Charly Fritzer). Chadders on pitch 2, Overseer Direct. Will cruising toppitch of Daddy Longlegs.